Decorah

Thunder was rumbling in the background. Local radar showed a swath of red getting closer by the minute. The light was quickly diminishing.  There I was, turned about on a section of mountain bike trail that winded around so precariously it was difficult to tell which way was up. As my bike tires rolled between tree roots, loose rocks and pine needles, I felt water droplets hit my face as they began to rocket through the forest canopy. I was finally shooting down hill, the cool air rushing around my body, the front suspension jiggling as it compressed over the force of large rocks and expanded into the shallow pools in the ground turning a brain shaking rough ride into a barrably teeth rattling descent.

That's when I noticed it... the lightning bugs started glowing in unison.  It was one of the most beautiful displays I've seen as millions of little yellow-green flickers of light created a runway, directing me safely down the hill, guiding me back to the trailhead.  Thank you little bugs. Thank you for the light, for the direction, for the warmth in a forest of darkness and cold when everything feels so far away.

Cuyuna Camping Trip

Sometimes you find a place that might be nice to return to, or maybe a good idea to visit again (someday).  Other times, you land at a spot that feels so right you book reservations as soon as returning home.   Cuyuna is the latter, as we'll be returning in August as well as next year.  The Arizona meets Colorado landscape was designated as a Minnesota state recreation area located in Cuyuna Country and nestled near the two adjacent towns of Ironton and Crosby, MN.  The area used to house significant iron mining facilities during the 1920's.  After the easily accessible iron ore ran dry, ghost towns survived along with large pits (later to fill with water so clear you can see well over 20 feet down).  I learned from a regular visitor at our campsite that Brainerd (a small town about 20 minutes away) was battling a youth drug problem, so they gathered resources and started developing mountain bike trails.  Now, they have what I would describe as world-class mountain bike trails weaving around some of the purest, most beautiful lakes I've ever been in (albeit chilly in June) .
Camping at the DNR ran campground for three nights was satisfactory, while the area scenery was superb.  A short walk around the bend from our campsite we discovered one Portsmouth Mine Pit Lake, which is also used by scuba divers due to clear water conditions.  We were not let down.  The water was still frigid this early in summer, but it was not entirely unbearable.  It was a real "yikes" when you got in, but after moving and swimming, you could control your breathing and absorb some warmth from the sun.  We watched as minnows, perch, and a few bass approached our legs in the water.  One blueish fish came close enough to nudge it with my toe.  The kids enjoyed both the water (although you couldn't stay in it too long or you'd watch Charlie's lips turn blue) and playing in the red sandy-rock beach area where they built castles, islands, and a not so successful minnow trapping area.  At one point, I laid down on a picnic bench, allowed my vision to blur as I gazed up at the blue skies, and watched the cottonwood fluffs meander by in the air.  The birds chirped in some distant universe, and I wavered between the real earth and what I could only imagine as heaven.
When I say world-class mountain biking, I'm not joking.  The trails are brilliantly designed to roll through thick forests.  Much like riding a roller coaster you need only pedal on the short uphill sections, then roll back down the drops and swoop up again as your stomach lurches to and fro.  Ellie said she was scared but excited.  The red packed gravel-like dirt provided the perfect density of trail-pack which quickly soaked up water after rain while offering excellent grip for your tires.  We all rode the Galloping Goose trail which darted through sweet smelling pines along lakeside views.  At one point, I stopped by a cliff side, looked down into the clear waters below and watched a fish hovering in suspension - again unclear of the present state of reality.
The close proximity of the city allowed us to putter into town (a short 5 minute drive), pick up snacks, food, and eat out for dinner.
Cuyuna provided us the perfect balance of outdoor enjoyment with trails, lakes, easy access to food options, and of course our reason for returning.

The Porcupine Mountains Summer Vacation

We left mid-morning on Tuesday to cool temperatures (70's) and a blue sky.  We had a pleasant 6-7 hour drive to the upper peninsula of Michigan, which holds the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park.  Why?  Well, I found they have back country cabins... which means hiking without the tent!  For a family of 4, that's 10-15 lbs of weight left back in the car (yes, there are lighter large tents, but I opted for a cheap 5 person years ago, which is around 14 lbs).  So, off we went!  The lucky find on the way out (and back) was the quaint town of Ironwood, MI which has Bake Superior bake shop, Contrast Coffee, and The Pines Cafe serving breakfast and old fashioned ice cream treats (cash only - no internet site!).  Yes, we do try to embrace the journey when on vacation.  We stayed at the AmericInn in Silver City, MI - just outside of the park boundary.  This was also a gem of a find - with nice rooms, an indoor pool, and sandy beach access to the lake with fire pits and wood for guest use.  Not to mention, the staff was outstanding in every way, from greeting upon arrival to service in the restaurant (and taking care of the kids).  We opted for a quick and easy dinner in the restaurant and the kids enjoyed a swim in the lake, then pool, and apparently I took the short path to sleep!  I was awoken by Charlie screaming out "Daddy (apparently multiple times), is that you snoring?"  Unbeknownst to me, I was back asleep in seconds.

Wednesday we awoke to party cloudy skies and lows in the upper 50's/low 60's.  We drove to the park ranger station to check-in and obtain our back country cabin keys.  I had originally planned two different cabins (one for Wed night and one for Thur night), but to my surprise, I had booked a cabin and mistakenly a tent site for Thur.  This was revealed when I asked for the second set of keys and the ranger informed me that tent sites did not require keys.  It took me a few seconds as looked on in bewilderment, then realizing something was amiss.  I noted that my assumptions about LS-4 as a cabin site (since our ML-4 cabin was), but apparently the naming conventions for cabins and tent sites were not consistent.  No fault or blame - we had to work with what we had.  He was nice enough to realize I had not planned on tent camping (with a hike).  He found us a Yurt in the upper campgrounds that was available Thur night, and we took it.  All of this turned out to be a real blessing - as the hike in was reduced to only 3 miles.  Everyone made it without an issue.

The ML-4 (Mirror Lake, 4 person cabin) was nestled in the woods just 30 or so paces from the lake edge.  It had no electricity or running water, but the wood burning fire place, pots and pans, table, chairs, and 4 bunks made for a cozy place to stay.  Oh, the cabin rental also included the use of a boat (along with oars, life jackets, and a make shift anchor)!  We setup our things and went on a boat ride across the lake.

The rock outcropping we found provided a decent spot to anchor up and jump into the lake for a quick swim.  The water was cool and provided a quick "yikes" when getting in, but once submerged, was fine for relaxing in the sun.  The kids swam around and Ellie was ready to get out but summoned a new fear of "sea weed" (aka underwater moss) when attempting to get into the boat.  She proceeded to let us (and everyone within a mile radius) know in a not so quiet manner.  I pulled her out and she was happy to be in the boat.  We hopped out and began the 15-20 minute paddle back to our camp. 

I had noticed a pinhead drop of blood on my left shin, but paid no attention to it, as it was small and did not hurt (figured I had scraped it getting in or out).  By the time we reached our cabin landing, additional blood was oozing out and dripped down to my ankle.  I thought this was odd and warranted further investigation.  In the cabin, with my medic kit ready, I began to clean the wound only to find a small leech (also the size of a pinhead) beneath the original drop of blood.  It was quite interesting to see it until I realized it was attached to MY leg and I did not care to lose additional amounts of blood.  We all looked at it in wonder (and curious how best to remove it).  I was pretty sure Rambo would have used fire to burn it off, but it was so small I would of singed my leg hairs.  I eventually just pulled/flicked it off, medicated the wound with antibiotic, and bandaged it up.  All was good and I've noted no infections or problems.  *After coming back into Internet coverage I learned that leeches may contain small amounts of bacteria in their bellies, and if squeezed or agitated could push that into your body causing an infection.  The best way to remove one is to peel off the sucker/head with a fingernail or credit card (similar to removing a tick?).

Dinner was made around the campfire.  Dani and I had Thai Curry, which was especially delicious.  The kids had Three Cheese Mac & Cheese, which Dani and I also tasted and liked.  The kids ate some, but held out for the Raspberry Crumble dessert.

Reading by headlight and a quiet transition to bed was welcomed.  We were happily in the cabin as rain started late evening and proceeded to drizzle most of the night.

The next morning a light sprinkle continued off and on. Again, I was thankful for the change in itinerary as we only had to hike back out a few miles to the car.  My original plan of 8-10 miles would of required us to leave much earlier (in the rain) on muddy trails and have taken us most of the day.  Instead, a slow breakfast of warm granola and milk was welcomed.  A boat tour turned short due to rain and we were back at the cabin slowly packing our way to a departure.  We had no idea of the time and used the "feels like" method, which was just fine for us.  

The hike out was cool and relatively easy.  A meadow with a foot bridge over a stream provided the perfect rest spot as we took in the sounds of trickling water and a cool breeze.  Everyone was relaxed and in good moods.  Arrival back at the car prompted lunch of pb&j's (Ellie choosing a salami sandwich).  Our slow drive to the Yurt for the night was uneventful.

The Yurt also had bunks for four to sleep and a wood burning stove.  Although smaller than the cabin, it provided adequate shelter and warmth.  We explored the coastline and built a fire, although short lived due to on and off drizzle.  Charlie enjoyed a backpacking meal of spaghetti, Ellie had peanut butter on crackers, and Dani and I sampled a new Mexican Quinoa with black beans and butternut squash hiking meal.  It was fine, but we both ranked the Thai Curry as more preferable. 

Friday we went into town, refueled, purchased groceries, had lunch at a diner and made our way to the Presque Isle State Campground on the southern side of the park.

Our last night I (intentionally) reserved a tent site, and after slowly moving down the chain of possible housing (from hotel to cabin to yurt), we were happy to pitch a tent and enjoy the evening around a campfire.  The weather was perfect, offering blue skies and a golden orange sunset fading slowly into the horizon over Lake Superior.  I took the kids to the cliff edge to watch the sun set after they promised to do so quietly.  It was spectacular to watch the warm glow of the sun move soothingly out of site - and may have been the kids first sunset?  They were equally impressed and we enjoyed the moment.

Saturday was easier to awake and get rolling as other campers sleuthed out of their camping apparatus in search of the nearby latrine.  I had picked up donuts at the grocery, so we had a quick and easy breakfast of champions.  The warm, dry air made for an easy roll up of the tent.  We were on the road by mid morning (without rush) and were able to enjoy the warmth of the campfire and a cup of coffee before heading out.

Do be careful driving on 77 in the West side of Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest (in Wisconsin).  On the way out I had to brake hard to avoid colliding with a deer crossing the road, and I kid you not, the same deer sauntered out on the road on the way back in the exact same spot!  I can't make this up... each time it was 2 o'clock in the afternoon.  Same spot, same time, same deer, different days.  Creepy deer!

Die AutoBahn oder Bundesautobahn

The AutoBahn is Germany's federal highway system. Many Americans revel at the thought of a highway without speed limits… to put the pedal to the metal, stepping on it, giving her all she's got, or just being a bat out of hell. These describe what we, Americans may think of the AutoBahn. While cars do zip along on the AutoBahn, there is much more to it: logic, thought, balance, and working together as a system of drivers on the road. Also, there are plenty of posted speed limits: in town, near exits, interchanges, etc. However, on the open "interstate" where there is little reason to decelerate, you will find a crossed out speed limit sign as your last indication to proceed with necessary speed. Several other factors play into this equation. The roads are smooth like a fresh tortilla out of the oven. No potholes, no seams, no bumps. So, when you're in the middle lane doing 90-100 mph, and cars are singing by on your left, it just doesn't feel that fast. Second, with the price of gas somewhere around six dollars per gallon, you not only notice the land blurring as you slide past 100, but the gas needle moves much more quickly towards E. Going fast is not without cost (you also miss some beautiful scenery). It also depends on the make of your vehicle. While the speedometer showed up to 160 on the dash of our Ford vehicle (I forget the model as they don't make them in the US), there are clearly vehicles equipped to go much faster, and they do. I would estimate a Mercedes station wagon doing 180 or more along with a few Audi's and Porsches in the 180-200 range. However, they're not traveling at these speeds expecting to maintain it forever. They slow when traffic thickens, or cars are passing. They wait their turn, then accelerate back up to said speed. You stay in the far right lane, and only change lanes to pass (which is only done on the left). No one is ever weaving through traffic. Everyone obeys these basic principles (along with using their signals), and it makes for a pleasant, and efficient, driving experience. You check your mirrors often, stay alert, and pay attention to your surroundings. Wouldn't you if someone could pass on your left going over 200 mph? Zoom zoom.